Weds, Oct 21: Montalcino

Came down with a bad cold last night so did not sleep much and feeling pretty rotten. In spite of fairly nice roads and beautiful countryside, it was, therefore, a difficult day. We were out of the hotel by 9 am and on the road to the Montalcino area, home of Rosso de Montalcino wines, made with a slightly larger species of the San Giovese grape. There were beautiful vineyards and plowed fields and lovely old farm buildings along our route, When we started out, you could look back and see Montalcino on the top of the hill in the distance.

We were again following one of the routes in the Via Francigena netwok.

We stopped periodically for bits of history and culture. Farm houses were fort-like in structure because of the constant threat of attack.

There are differing opinions on the value of planting roses at the end of rows of vines. Where I grew up in California, I learned that roses were early indicators of wet conditions that could lead to mold/ mildew. Here people use them to alert them to the need to treat for bugs.

This was definitely working agricultural land as we could often tell from the smell (even with a stuffy nose :-) and an occasional tractor

We had another wonderful lunch made with local produce, meats, bread, olive oil, and, of course, wine. The local style of pasta is called pici, a thck rolled strand that offers twisty curls for the various sauces to cling to.

After lunch we went for an abbreviated walk around this lovely walled town as the weather has turned quite cold. 

We have a nice room on the top floor of our hotel, with expansive views of countryside below. Will get some pictures of that in the morning. For now, Anne and I will drag ourselves out for a light supper and make it an early night. Anne has also come down with a cough, so not a particularly lively pair :-(

Oct 20, Tuesday: San Gimignano, Sant' Ulivieri, and Colle di Val D'Elsa

We started the day in the beautiful medieval town of San Gimignano, stopping first in a small church and then heading UPHILL for a commanding view of the surrounding area.

The town itself (the old walled portion) is so picturesque that I could have wandered for hours taking pictures.

But after a quick latte in a shop on the main square, we headed out to the countryside, following the route of the Pilgrims to Rome. the Via Francigena (fran CHEE gen ah).

It was a perfect fall day, unlike yesterday's grayer skies, Anne picked out a couple of small villas she is interested in buying, and as usual, we saw lots of olives and vineyards.

Looking back toward San Gimignano, you can see how far we walked. I actually got a ride for the last chink of the route (the uphill part :-) since I was reluctant to get my feet wet, 

So Anne and I were waiting at this beautiful organic vegetable farm, Sant' Ulivieri, having a glass of wine and playing with the dogs when the rest arrived.

Not only did we have the most incredible home-grownand home-made foods and wines, but we were graced with a wonderful accordian recital afterwards by the family son and chef, Alessandro.

About 3:30, we headed out and tackled some significant hills again on the way to this mountain town on the river Elsa, hence the name--Colle di Cal D'Elsa. 

It was known for paper and crystal (RCR) production and we got to see a demonstration by a master craftsman who has even created pieces for the Pope.

By the time we left, the evening light turned everything golden.

Then back to Siena to run a few errands, grab some cheese (Taleggio) and fruit for a light dinner, and get packed for early departure Wednesday.

Oct. 19, Monday: Walk in Chianti

We drove half an hour to the Chianti region for a 4 plus mile walk through hills planted with vineyards and orchards. 

Passed through one big winery--produces 4 million bottles of wine a year. They had a huge sculpture of a black rooster--associated by legend and now tradition with Chianti.

Continued on to a much smaller (40 K bottles a year) organic winery. They have been organic from inception in the early 80's when it was quite uncommon. 

Our host and tasting guide was Anselmo, one of two brothers who took over the operation from his father a few years ago. 

His mother makes these wonderful whimsical ceramics which are also sold there. 

They make licensed Chianti wine (look for DOCG on the label --need to check that) which means from a licensed farm and minimum 70% San Giovese grapes. Their Reserve, aged 4 years in French oak barrels was by far the best.

Walked a bit further for lunch at a restaurant by a pond, and then were picked up by vans for return to Siena about 4 pm.

Had a class on making pasta last night. I flunked. Mine was too wet. Fortunately we did not have to eat what we made and had some dive handmade ravioli stuffed with a mix of soft cheeses and were served several kinds of wine and tiny cheese souffles baked on a bed of San Giovese grapes,and then a flourless chocolate and almond cake for dessert.Staggered home shortly after 11 pm. Up again--very tired for a much longer walk today (Tuesday).

Oct.18, Siena

Anne and I started by just wandering the streets of the old city for the morning, oohing and aahing over window after window of gorgeous leather goods and ceramics and art--and the choco shop where you can buy chocolate mustaches. 

We were also shaking our heads in wonder at the invasion of large plastic animals in all colors. 

Turns out these are part of a temporary "contemporary art" exhibit (said with barely restrained disdain by our city guide in the afternoon)--along with statues of very well-padded women and a huge metal smile placed upon city hall.

We joined the group at 1 pm--there are 13 travelers plus various guides. As in other European countries they take their tourism very seriously and you have to be licensed to do certain types of tours. Gianni will be our guide for the countryside but today we hace a city guide trained in the art and history of the area.

Siena was a very big power until they were defeated by Florence in the 1300's, so there is an extensive and beautiful old city dating back several hundred years that is a UNESCO heritage site. 

The city is divided into historical contrade (neighborhoods) from long ago that are still very much alive and well today with shifting alliances and often well marked boundaries indicated by sculptures, tiles mounted on buildings, or baptismal founts. See examples of panthers (Gianni's home neighborhood), eagles, turtles, dolphins, and rhinos.

This is played out every year in two major horse races in the very center of town, called the Palio races, which are dedicated to Mary.

The Duomo, also dedicated to Mary, would need a whole book to describe all the art inside and out. 

Did I mention the gelato? More pics later...