Oct. 22,Thursday: Montalcino and Surrounds

About the only thing that got me out of bed this morning was the prospect of hearing the monks chant at the abbey at Sant' Antimo. And we missed it ecause lunch went on too long--what a disappointment.

It was a beautiful if very windy and cold morning. I started off in all available layers as we took another walk around Montalcino.

We went to the cemetary, which was really beautiful, but were asked not to take picyures inside as people might be there honoring departed loved ones--especially since All Souls' Day is just around the corner.

Our walk had the usual stunning views of vineyards and fields, although we quickly headed into forested trails.

There we learnd about wild boars which wallow in mud to rid themselves of bugs, uproot plants, and are hunted regularly. We also learned about hedgehog chestnuts.

Our goal was the "Il Coco" organic vineyard and winery where Anne made a new friend.

This family run business is a small producer of the licensed Rossa Montalcino (DOC) and Brunella Montalcino (DOCG).

The son who makes the wine, Giacomo, was so knowledgeable and passionate about the wines they make. Learned new things about "washing" the wine glass with wine before you fill it, and how to smell on each side of yor nose, and sniffing when the wine is still and again after it is swirled a bit.

As I said, we arrived too late to hear rhe chanting, but the abbey was in a lovely setting.

Back to Mpntalcino for a short walk outside the walls and into town.

As always, I cannot resist a pretty front garden orinteresting doorway.

We had an informal yoga session tonight thanks to our co-guide, Rudy, and then a late dinner here,

 

Weds, Oct 21: Montalcino

Came down with a bad cold last night so did not sleep much and feeling pretty rotten. In spite of fairly nice roads and beautiful countryside, it was, therefore, a difficult day. We were out of the hotel by 9 am and on the road to the Montalcino area, home of Rosso de Montalcino wines, made with a slightly larger species of the San Giovese grape. There were beautiful vineyards and plowed fields and lovely old farm buildings along our route, When we started out, you could look back and see Montalcino on the top of the hill in the distance.

We were again following one of the routes in the Via Francigena netwok.

We stopped periodically for bits of history and culture. Farm houses were fort-like in structure because of the constant threat of attack.

There are differing opinions on the value of planting roses at the end of rows of vines. Where I grew up in California, I learned that roses were early indicators of wet conditions that could lead to mold/ mildew. Here people use them to alert them to the need to treat for bugs.

This was definitely working agricultural land as we could often tell from the smell (even with a stuffy nose :-) and an occasional tractor

We had another wonderful lunch made with local produce, meats, bread, olive oil, and, of course, wine. The local style of pasta is called pici, a thck rolled strand that offers twisty curls for the various sauces to cling to.

After lunch we went for an abbreviated walk around this lovely walled town as the weather has turned quite cold. 

We have a nice room on the top floor of our hotel, with expansive views of countryside below. Will get some pictures of that in the morning. For now, Anne and I will drag ourselves out for a light supper and make it an early night. Anne has also come down with a cough, so not a particularly lively pair :-(

Oct 20, Tuesday: San Gimignano, Sant' Ulivieri, and Colle di Val D'Elsa

We started the day in the beautiful medieval town of San Gimignano, stopping first in a small church and then heading UPHILL for a commanding view of the surrounding area.

The town itself (the old walled portion) is so picturesque that I could have wandered for hours taking pictures.

But after a quick latte in a shop on the main square, we headed out to the countryside, following the route of the Pilgrims to Rome. the Via Francigena (fran CHEE gen ah).

It was a perfect fall day, unlike yesterday's grayer skies, Anne picked out a couple of small villas she is interested in buying, and as usual, we saw lots of olives and vineyards.

Looking back toward San Gimignano, you can see how far we walked. I actually got a ride for the last chink of the route (the uphill part :-) since I was reluctant to get my feet wet, 

So Anne and I were waiting at this beautiful organic vegetable farm, Sant' Ulivieri, having a glass of wine and playing with the dogs when the rest arrived.

Not only did we have the most incredible home-grownand home-made foods and wines, but we were graced with a wonderful accordian recital afterwards by the family son and chef, Alessandro.

About 3:30, we headed out and tackled some significant hills again on the way to this mountain town on the river Elsa, hence the name--Colle di Cal D'Elsa. 

It was known for paper and crystal (RCR) production and we got to see a demonstration by a master craftsman who has even created pieces for the Pope.

By the time we left, the evening light turned everything golden.

Then back to Siena to run a few errands, grab some cheese (Taleggio) and fruit for a light dinner, and get packed for early departure Wednesday.